Claire Schaeffer- Chanel and That Suit class review

I have recently returned from a fabulous sewing adventure in Palm Springs Calif.  After many years of hopeful desire I have finally realized my dream of taking a class with Claire Shaeffer.

If you don't know about Claire I suggest you head over to Amazon where she has many books for sale, or Threads where she has countless articles that she has contributed.  She is a leading educator in the art and craft of fashion sewing and a major collector of vintage couture fashion.

Your week begins having dinner at Claire's home, being introduced to her husband, well behaved dogs and  fellow students. It ends with regretful partings, half of a Chanel jacket and as many supplies as you can pack into a large flat rate shipping box.

The highlights for me outside of the 100+ degree weather and the familiar landscape were....

#1 

Seeing Chanel Couture garments up close and personal

Claire is incredibly generous with her time, energy and knowledge.  Every day new jackets would arrive at class for us to pour over, take pictures of, discuss and discover.

She took delight in pointing out to us the unusual details and amazing techniques used to create these beautiful garments.

Under collar detail of a Chanel couture jacket 

Pocket detail of a Chanel jacket

 We not only got to see the jackets, but vests, skirts and blouses that accompanied them.

#2 - Instruction

Claire would demonstrate the techniques we would need for each days sewing.  Thread basting, seaming, making trims, buttonholes, setting sleeves, shaping collars, etc.  It was a lot of information, a lot of sewing and a lot of fun!!  Although I own many of her books, have watched her DVD's  and sew almost every day of my life, there is nothing like watching someone stitch with accuracy and efficiency to help you improve your skills and learn new ones.

#3 - More Instruction

After learning a new technique and creating a sample being able to compare my work to the work done in the Chanel workroom...valuable beyond all measure!!
  One day I asked Claire about a certain hard to obtain pattern book..on the following day, not only had she brought in that book but every other book she had on the subject so that I could determine for myself which would be the most valuable for me to own.  It was a generous thing to do and extremely helpful for me.  She did this in various ways for each and every one of us!

#4 - The Other Participants

Claire has an assistant.  The dear Linda Homan, who we could confess our mistakes to, ask assistance from and who generally took care of us and Claire making all things run smoothly.

My fellow students were, bloggers, teachers, " beginners" and re-beginners. They were kind, supportive, encouraging and tired. It is a bit of a marathon, between getting to know people, looking at each new garment that was brought in, learning new techniques and trying to keep up with the days agenda, but so worth it. 

In summary, I had a great time, I cannot wait to take another class from her and I would encourage any of you who want to expand your sewing skills, regardless of your interest in Chanel or your level of experience to do so without hesitation. 

 Make it happen, you will not regret it.

If you would like to see more and learn more about Claire's class head over to La Sewista for a fab review

Story Board Design Challange

I know , I know you have not heard from me in ages...simply ages.  The good news is that the Super Hero Business over at Williams Studio 2 is keeping us very busy.  The bad news, less time for personal sewing and a lot less time for blogging about personal sewing.

In an effort though to expand my horizons I have decided to enter a design challenge for the ASE this coming September. 

 Step 1 - Story Board - Check!

Step 2 - Sketches

Step 3 - Pattern/ drape final design

Step 4 - Sew...like the wind...and between costumes

I have not had the pleasure of creating a story board in quite a while.  This was fun and after all the musing only required an hour of my time to produce.  

Have any of you ever entered sewing or design contests?

Any recommendations, suggestions or warnings? - lol

A lot of Lurking & A touch of sewing

This title is not to suggest that in my lengthy posting absence that I have not been sewing. 

 Heaven Forbid!  

Rather it is to say that I have been exploring lurking.  You know reading blogs appreciating and even using the information while rarely leaving a comment trail.  

Quite honestly it feels a bit like walking into someones home while they are out, raiding their fridge and sneaking out with out a "by your leave".

But enough about lurking (questions to follow) and on to sewing....Hooray!

This is a small sampling of what I have been up to of late, more to follow in the days ahead possibly.

"Your assignment should you choose to accept it"

 Create a bra for an elderly client with sloping shoulders a 32" rib cage and a E cup.

I used the Pin-Up Girls Classic Bra Pattern with no alterations(seriously, just follow the directions) and achieved a perfect fit and the only comfortable bra she has ever had!!

 and from the back.  

I have have made 3 of these in total and still need to make another in black 

&

1 in red and white gingham

( that is supposed to be a teaser of sorts)

For the same client a quilted vest from Moda charm packs.  She used to do more sewing herself, but in her semi-retirement she has decided its more fun to be the designer.

  She provides me with the idea, the fabrics, and some of the notions( buttons in this case) but leaves me lots of room to add my own touches.

What a great client!!

This close up shows some of my touches.  

After sewing the charm squares together. I hand quilted them to a layer of cotton flannel using different colors of embroidery floss.  

The breast pocket was an additional touch to help achieve two objectives.

 1- Create a space to show off her hankie collection.

2- Balance out the bust by creating a focal point above it and drawing the eye back towards her lovely face.

Now back to the questions, because I really want to know:)

Do you like to lurk?

Do you prefer it?

Do you ever feel guilty for it?

Do you find commenting bothersome, required, pointless,  or challenging?

For The Love or the Economy of Sewing?

This NY Times article about Bespoke Tailors was just brought to my attention thru  Made by Hand - the great Sartorial Debate  and I thought I should pass the favor on by sharing it with will all of you.  Please take a few minutes to read it and be sure to look at the photos.   I love seeing peoples/companies sewing rooms don't you?

Marvin Orellana/The New York Times

Obviously sewing for yourself and/or others is a time consuming and not always inexpensive endeavor.  Homemakers in the past sewed for economy's sake....but does that still hold true today?  With fabrics costs rising and RTW clothing prices being so affordable why do we bother sewing?  Why do you sew?

Lynne Williams at her cutting table in the Williams Studio sewing room

I often tell my students to compare apples to apples and not apples to oranges.  By this I mean compare the price of your custom made pants to a pair of custom made pants, not to RTW pants you could pick up at JC Pennys  This only makes sense right?  We cannot custom make a pair of pants for the same price a factory can crank them out for...thats apples to oranges folks....apples to oranges.  While it is true that when you begin sewing your skills might not be as good as factory standards, but you are gaining so much more than a garment.  You are gaining skills, sewing, fitting and style skills, critical thinking skills, not to mention, patience, endurance, humility and pride of accomplishment.  This is valuable human development!  Sure some might argue that shopping will provide some of the same lessons, but I prefer the sewing.....is that just me?
 While those around us might wonder why we bother....we know why, its far more than having something to wear, its having something to wear that was constructed especially for us, completely unique in fit and style, just like each of us.

Please let me know your thoughts on the article and how you benefit from sewing for yourself and others.

Seasonal Sewing Plan

Eucalyptus tree bark

Am I the only one feeling "Seasonal Transition Disorder"?
 ( Don't google that I just made it up)  Maybe it's just my ADD working overtime but I can't settle down to my sewing.  July went so well...and then August just fell apart, and here we are its Sept. 1st....National Sewing Month and I simply must pull it together.

I suppose it is in part due to all of the fall trends being released and a bit of Pinterest overload.  Last week though I decided I had to take control of the situation so I spent a day deciding on my fall & winter sewing line up.  Once I had a plan I was able to settle down and I am now looking forward to my sewing once again.

My fall plan is inspired by this Eucalyptus bark.  I have fond memories of eucalyptus..I can smell it in the air and hear the distinctive rustle of its leaves every time I say the word.  It reminds me of dry September days, dusty toes, playground fun and ponies....it's all good:)

I thought about joining the Fall Wardrobe Challenge at PR but I don't really need a wardrobe, mine got a fine start last year....Remember.......


My needs are:
          Ministry clothes -  Skirts, Dresses and Blouses, dressy
                                       layers - vests, sweaters,blazers
   
           Studio clothes - Jeans, cords, Henleys, T's and sweaters

I made this skirt last fall along with several other items and I simply need to add a few items to the mix.  I have enough of the skirt fabric left over to make a vest from.....

This is a Folk Wear vest made last year and I will probably use the same pattern for my vest for this year or the double breasted version is another option.

These are some stash fabrics I pulled and I found a use for the burnt orange (2nd from left) which will mix in nicely with my other dressy separates.

This is a tried and true pattern which I will make up in the burnt orange silk adding a flutter sleeve to it.

I also have some brass sequins which I will add to the hem of the sleeve and possible the hem of the blouse, or possibly scattered over the silk....


The brass sequins came from a jacket I made for my mom.  The silk dupion yardage she chose had a fairly dense covering of these lovely sequins on it.  They had to be removed from the seam allowance which produced a fine stash of them for future projects:)

This piece of linen on the far left was planned for the blouse on the right as part of last years fall sewing plan....Ah well the best laid plains will be just as suitable a year later.....right?

 



My Jalie jeans have worked out well and I think I will modify the pattern to create some straight leg corduroys.  I have some green medium wale corduroy in my stash that will be suitable for studio days.

In the evenings I can knit on this vest, which will be suitable for both the studio and the ministry:)






This is a knitting class being offered thru Craftsy which I signed up for because.... I like to knit, have not done any Fair Isle and have found knitted vests to be very useful here in WI.

I have had a love affair with this pattern for a few years, could this be the year it gets made up?........

I don't have fabric in my stash for this one and I have been trying to use all the glorious fabrics I already have but.....could I break my "no fabric buying" streak with.....
   


....this plaid from fabric.com?  



So this is the Fall plan and we will talk about winter once I have a few of these babies made up.  I do not expect to accomplish them all but if I don't have a lot to do I procrastinate and then nothing gets done...Anyone else have this issue?  

I will stop sewing fall items on Nov 30th  and sew winter items from Dec. 1st thru Feb 30th.

Do you like to plan your sewing seasonally? or just as you're inspired?

Thrift Store Find - Vintage Rayon Dress

Chuck and I were in Minocqua recently and upon completing our necessary business we decided to treat ourselves to breakfast and some antique shopping.  Breakfast was at Paul Bunyan's and before you groan in disbelief ( those of you who know it) let me just say horrible camp food eaten in the "family style" reminds us both of our childhood...and summer....it all goes hand in hand. 

 So let's just talk shopping for vintage fashion at Island City Antiques. 

You will not believe what Chuck found there! 

 He is such a hunter!!

They have such a small clothes rack there and I never, never, never find anything of interest, but Chuck, hit the jackpot..... for little ol' me.  

The rack was full of vintage garments in my size.  Someone's closet obviously was cleared out and did I benefit.

First up is this rayon dress.

 My apologies for the quality of this first shot.  I tried and tried to get a nice shot, but I don't think my poor little camera knew what to focus on. 

The daisy's, the ballerina's, the gift boxes, or maybe the rhinestone buttons?

What a curious mix up of a fabric.

The ruching covers the front yoke and is stabilized with a plain lining.  

The same is used for the facing on the front placket.  The small collar is under stitched.

Can you even believe that the self belt is still with it?

There is a small hook at the collar with a thread loop on the corresponding side.  

In some ways this dress is simplicity itself.  The facing and unfinished seams are basic to say the least, but then you have beautifully made spaghetti loops with the lovely little tie at the throat.

It makes me curious...and I was beginning to think it was hand/custom made for the client when.....

I found this one tag along the back skirt princess seam, printed with  style # 1240

The hem , which I pinned up so you could all take a gander at it is done with  rayon seam tape and a machine blind hem.
The belt overlaps in the back and has a series of buttons underneath with 2 buttonholes on the top so that you can adjust the fit.
Underneath the belt there is a small casing with some elastic in it, which is still in good working order!

I am hoping someone can provide some more information about this dress.
Have you seen ready made garments without seam finishes before?
What year would you place this dress from?

There will be more vintage garments  to follow...eventually..I promise - lol

Dangerous Artists & Peter does Coco

My sister recently sent me this poster image from the Cold War....

I had never seen it before, but of course it gave us a good laugh here in the studio where it is true we "mix it up" frequently.  I had no idea we were so subversive.

Speaking of Dangerous Artists .....

How fantastic is this print I just purchased of Coco Channel?

It was created by Peter Emmerich an artist my husband worked with at Disney

Isn't she fabulous!!  

Peter has other wonderful and affordable prints at his Etsy store.  

check out the fashion note cards...

Enough procrastinating for me now....no really I just thought you all would appreciate the art and subject matter. 

Its time for me to make a bat cape, a robin mask and sew some ears on a cowl.  

If I am positively productive I just might get to catch you all up on the 1912 project progress when I am done.

UFO Progress - Indygo Jacket Complete

Sweet!!  My "bed jacket" is complete.  I finished sewing the buttons on last night. 

Don't you think they are perfect? What a find at MJ trim.

I wish I could better express the scrumptious feel of the jacket.  It's quilted layers feel more like a sweater then a jacket due to the fact that there is no interfacing or traditional tailored structuring.

The silk lining against the skin...don't think I need to say much on that score.

The slightly bell sleeve adds to the comfort, no binding at the elbow or bicep.

For a recap....we have a wool and angora blend fabric which has been hand quilted with silk thread to the silk charmeuse lining. 

 The princess and cuff seams are lapped and wrapped in the silk lining.  

The lapels have a self designed primitive flower quilted on them. Which is echoed on the upper back panel as well.

All of the interior seams are neatly hidden.

I changed the hem line to  swoop in the back.  It's very flattering on and protects my lower back from being exposed to the cold morning air.

You can also see the silk bound shoulder seam from this angle.

The back princess seams open to a lapped vent from waist to hem.

The quilting pattern that runs up the back panel is worked in 3 colors of silk thread - teal, brown, and mint greeen

The cuffs have wool applique, needle felting, embroidery and echo quilting.

The hem is also bound with the silk lining.

The buttonholes are hand worked in a teal silk thread (doubled), something I do not do very often, but I think they add just the right touch here.  Quite a bit more delicate then the pattern suggests, but the entire jacket is delicate I think. 

Here we have my project worksheet..my scanner is out of comissh, so I had to take a picture of it. 

 As you can see this idea was launched in 2007 which I believe was when I purchased the wool fabric at a Minnesota sewing expo.  I officially started sewing on it in August of 2011, put it aside for 4 months and committed to finishing it as my "Git R Done" resolution of 2012

The entire project cost $105.00 

You can see the the progress posts at the links below.

Indygo Jacket - 1st post  you can see the pattern, progress and interior seaming here.
                         2nd post  the hand quilting and sleeve seam finish

This pattern was simple to put together, my additions proved labor intensive though.  Needless to say you could machine quilt your layers, or do a standard lining in it and then it would go together quite quickly.  That having been said , I found it a very suitable pattern for additional embellishment....so you just might want to get creative.  The original instructions are complete and easy to follow.  You may or may not want to amend the sleeve cuff ( see 2nd post) and if you have a full upper arm you will need to adjust your sleeve pattern as you normally would.

Jillybe asked me earlier why I was calling it a "bed jacket" and primarily that is because it was inspired by the lounging pajamas from glamour movies of the 30's and 40s.  In those movies even middle class "broads"

had the must outrageous lounging costumes.  

I just think every women needs just such a garment. 

 Let's crawl out of our sweatpants and slip on something luxurious. We deserve it:)

UFO Progress report - Indigo Junction Jacket IJ741

 Something has come over me....I find myself once again committing myself to new projects!

How does this happen when clearly I have plenty of unfinished projects to keep me busy...quite busy.

My new schedule is allowing me more time to sew...but let's not get carried away Lynne

Maybe an intervention is in order.

When last we left this project it looked very ...very similar to this, but there has been some progress.

The hem is complete.

If you look closely you can now see the sashiko stitching in silk thread up the center back.

I have also made progress on the other sleeve.

The hand quilting is completed.

I accomplished this by basting the wool and silk layers together ( long white thread)

Marking 1" lines with a chalk wheel 

Then I did a hand quilting or running stitch.

This does not take as long as you think it will....really:)

I am careful to not do my running stitch to close to the seam line because I will need room to press the seam open once it has been machine sewn.  I pin the silk lining out of the way because I don't want to catch it in the seam.

After my seam is sewn I press it open using a seam stick.  This prevents me from pressing a crease in the silk lining.

Once the seam has been pressed open I can lay the silk over the seam and hand stitch it closed.

I will do this tonight while watching Downtown Abbey.

I will also fix this little annoyance...

Do you see how the hem is uneven....Argh.  This is a basic pattern mistake which really rather irritates me.  It's also a rather common mistake. 

But what irritates me more is that I let it get this far....why?

When I trued up the pattern, I did not fix it...and this is something I specifically look for!

When I sewed up my cuff all I needed to do was trim it even with the front hem before I hand bound the hemline!  Each time I encountered this issue I just kept thinking " Oh for goodness sake Lynne, lighten up, its a bed jacket"  Ah yeah, a bed jacket I will be spending many many many hours on.  

If your going to do something....do it to the best of your ability.

Clearly this needs to be fixed especially since I didn't let it get this far on the other cuff - lol

So tonight..while watching Downtown Abbey this will be ripped back to the point where I can make it right.

Do you ever see a problem coming and do nothing to prevent it from becoming a bigger problem?

Why? 

 Will I ever stop this?  

Please share your similar experiences with me..

I need to know I am not the only one who pursues such a foolish course. 

Eva Dress contest & Sewing Project Organization

Today I thought I would share with you how I catalog my sewing projects and  ideas.  When the pieces start coming together for a project I like to organize them in such a way that I can track my time, ideas and expenses.  I do this for clients as well as my personal sewing.  

It begins with a form I made which was inspired by Roberta Carr's worksheet as found in:

 "Couture The Art of Fine Sewing"

You are welcome to download my form and use it for your projects.  You can find the form here

For the Eva Dress Contest I am planning on making this 1940 playsuit

  

My plans for these overalls are to use them for gardening although I am seriously haunted by making silk pajamas as well.  

Just Imagine how luxurious I would feel wearing a silk charmeuse playsuit with my Indigo Junction bed jacket?  

Can you say "Mr D'Mille I am ready for my close up"?

Alas the sensible side of me says I need something fashionable and serviceable to garden in.  Which would mean cotton lined linen overalls with some cargo type pockets to carry tools.  I also want to be able to roll the hem up, to keep them out of the water.  In order to accommodate that I will add some straps inside the side seam which will button to the outside side seam.  Not sure yet what I will use for the jacket, which I will most likely need.  A lightweight cotton shirting would  suit as it would protect me from the sun and bugs.

 I put in as much information as I have to begin and then I will add to the worksheet as I progress. 

 Under the Pattern Alterations I make notes about size changes I make. 

 The Design changes is where I list...well changes I want to make from the original design of the pattern.  As I am doing that I will make notes about any special cutting issues I might need to consider and list them under Cutting notes.

I think you get the idea:)

At this stage of the project nothing is written in stone. The sheet serves as a reminder and reference.  I slip the sheet into a sheet protector and place it in my project notebook. When I want to start something new, usually as I am finishing up some other project I will flip through my notebook and see what beckons.   As I finish them I move them to the back of the notebook so I can refer to them later.   Sometimes I think I know what I want to do with a particular fabric and I create a project sheet for it, but I can always change my mind later if I find different pattern or need.   

I like to use these when shopping for additional trims and notions all the info is available and easy to carry along.  Once I start working on them I pin them to my bulletin board for a constant visual reminder.  Currently I have 4 of them pinned and in progress.

Do you have a way you like to organize your sewing projects or would you rather not bother and just dig in?