Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Mad Men Sew Along - the zipper and beyond.

After preparing the center back seam with interfacing you are ready to install your invisible zipper.  You can see a  basic video tutorial on YouTube.  As some of you may know instead of pinning or basting my zipper in I like to use Wonder Tape, its very secure and there is no fussing with pins.  Apply the tape to the right side of your zipper tape just along the outer edge, slightly away from the teeth. Peel the paper backing off of one side of your zipper and place on right side of fabric so that the teeth are sitting on the 5/8" stitching line and the top of the tape is sitting at the edge of the neckline. After sewing use a pencil to mark where the waist seam crosses the tape.  Now repeat the process for the other side of your zipper being careful that your pencil line  matches the waist seam on the other side. 

Your completed zipper should match beautifully at the seam line, your zipper gotta love an invisible zipper.

 Finish sewing your center back seam from top of skirt vent to where you stopped sewing your zipper.  I do the majority of this with a regular foot, and then switch to a zipper foot for the final few inches.   
 I also like to reinforce my vent fold with a strip of interfacing.  You can interface the entire vent, or use a strip, as I did.  You want to place a straight edge along your marked vent fold line, being careful not to fuse your tailor tacks in.

 Press along this fold line.

Now we need to sew the vent extensions together across the angled top of the vent to the center back seam.  Clip close to the stitch line and press the center back seam open and the vent towards the right as you are looking at the wrong side.

That's what I call a sewing hump.  Now I get to sew the shoulders and side seams together, finish and press those seams open...getting giddy now...Are you ready?

Ta Da!!
Well the shell is together at least.  Next will be the lining, sleeves and the hem.  Of course I had to pin the belt buckle on there, and I have ordered two velvet ribbons, one in black and one in navy.  Looking forward to their arrival I am hoping the navy is dark enough to use.

Oh Yes and lets not forget the movie selection for the day....which was...."How To Succeed in Business Without really trying"

Think I may need a pillbox hat for this dress now.


  1. I love your dress! The color and texture are perfect for this dress and I definitely think you should get a pill box hat.

  2. I always have troubles stitching invisible zippers. I use a regular zipper foot but I never manage to get close enough to the coils. Do you have any tips? Or should I simply get an invisible zipper foot?


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