Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Mad Men: The Lining

The patterns we purchase rarely have seperate pattern pieces for the lining, this saves on printing costs, but means that we have do additional steps if we want our garments to look professional.  For our lining on this dress it simply means removing the 5/8" seam allowance from the center back seam all along the bodice lining and just to the notch on the back skirt.  Scary I know... but bear with me.  Sew your dress lining together except for you center back seam and do not sew the sleeves in.

After sewing your dress lining together pin(with right sides together) the center back seam of the lining to the center back seam of your dress and stitch at 1/2" from the neckline to the end of the zipper.  You will be sewing through the zipper tape.

  Next we will sew the neckline. 

 With right sides together pin the shoulder seams of your dress to the shoulder seams of the lining, continue pinning the front neckline.  When pinning your back neck line your lining will be shorter then the dress, this is as it should be, lay the center back seam allowance to the lining side. 

Sew your neckline at 5/8"

After sewing your neckline, trim and clip the seam allowance.  Turn right side out. Understitch the neckline.  The zipper is neatly sewn in and the neckline is ready to be pressed. 

 Baste the armhole lining to the the dress.   

To sew the sleeves, you sew the underarm seam on the fabric sleeves as well as the lining.  With right sides together sew  the lining to the sleeve along the hem line, understitch.  Sew sleeve into bodice being careful to not catch the sleeve lining.  Trim the seam allowance under the arm to about mid way up the armhole back to 1/4".  Hand sew the sleeve lining to the bodice lining around the armhole.

Thats all for today.  I need to sew that sleeve lining in and then I will post pictures of the finished dress.

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