Men's Casual shirts - A Student Accomplishment

 This month in the studio a student of mine .....dear Elizabeth, made these shirts for her beau.  He has an upcoming trip to Hawaii and she thought he should have appropriate attire for the occasion.

The skills learned during this project were:

1.  Crisp and proper pockets ( Elizabeth's pride and joy)

2. Buttonholes

3. Collars

4. Top stitching with doubled thread

5. How to cut and mark difficult fabrics ( the blue bamboo)

6. Cutting out a garment with a rotary cutter instead of scissors.

7. Altering the pattern based on a shirt we knew fit him well.

8. Using a serger/over lock machine.  Blade engaged and not engaged, convex and concave curves.

Here they are neatly folded and ready to be gifted:)

These are not her first shirts mind you....I believe her 2nd or 3rd if memory serves.  Her first were more difficult dress shirts and although accomplished successfully, she desired, as do we all, to improve on her first results.  In particular the quality of her pocket .  Additionally she wanted to try her hand at a slightly more difficult fabric.  This pattern was a wise choice for these goals because the simplicity of the shirt allows you to focus on the new skills, while not becoming overwhelmed by the whole project.

Both were made from the same pattern.  Repeating the same task is very helpful in learning new skills, conquering them and imprinting them into your new skill sets.

This shirt is made from Bamboo, it was the 2nd to be made due the higher difficulty level.  The fabric behaves like a rayon challis and is quite a bit more squirreley(so not a word apparently imagine that ..) then previous projects Elizabeth worked on.

This first version is hemp and you can see has quite a bit more body then the bamboo.  It was the perfect training ground. The fabric was easy to work to sew and press.

The shirt has a minimal amount of top stitching but Elizabeth chose to add this small touch at the shoulder line.  She learned how to use 2 threads through her needle to achieve a bolder line.  

Inside each shirt pocket she placed a small hand embroidered initial.

How romantic.

Less romantic was learning how to use the serger.  

This is one of the advantages to learning in my studio, important equipment, like the serger to try out. Multiple machines, various notions and tools are all ready at hand.

This button and button hole are one of the many new things that Elizabeth conquered on this project.  

She used a new tool for these as well, my singer buttonhole attachment which provides a beautiful rounded on both ends proper shirt/dress buttonhole.  This was accomplished on my Singer 401.

  Another hurdle conquered as she learned how to thread and operate yet another machine.

This beautifully pink machine is Elva Mae and belongs to Elizabeth...of course.  

This is the machine she primarily used for this project.

Here it is threaded for that double thread top stitching.  

This machine has such a beautiful even feed, a lovely stitch and the smoothest pedal action.  No delay at all and it can sew incredibly slowly.  It does a rather wide zig zag and the the feed dogs can be dropped.  The only downside is that the needle position is to the far left.....which takes some getting used to and limits the types of feet you can use with it.  It is as heavy as the dickens and will be awesome no doubt for free motion quilting.

In the Studio this week - Swing Coats and Bunny Uniforms

I have come to realize that sometimes I make promises on this blog that I do not keep.

  It's a shocking thing to realize about yourself.

  In an attempt to rectify this bad habit I am sharing what Peg and I have been working on in the studio this week(as promised...), which has been a dressy swing coat with matching hand muff, alterations, and a Playboy Bunny uniform.

This silk taffeta swing coat was made using a Butterick 4928

My client/student is making a dress from the same silk taffeta, and due to her date deadline :) decided it was advisable to split the project up by having me make the coat.

 This elegant dress coat has a surprise....

It's lined with Minky, yes Minky and we made a very warm Minky lined faux fur hand muff to compliment the coat.  If you are in need of a dress coat...and who of us is not?.....I can recommend this unusual combination of fabrics.  The coat is lightweight and oh so cozy, with its warm and comfy lining.  If you don't need a dress coat..how about a housecoat?  Think about it....Right?

Now on to the Bunny Uniform... because who wants to talk about alterations when there is serious costuming to discuss.

The girls in club uniform greeting Hugh Hefner at the airport

A favorite client of mine commissioned the Union Jack Bunny costume, (seen at far right), but the seamstress who was hired to add the flag pattern became ill, making it impossible for her to do her part. 

 I hope she is feeling better soon

Union Jack Playboy Bunny Uniform in progress.

Enter Lynne.....who received  a base suit made by Bunny PJ in Navy blue, with tail and name tag. Following many reference photos I have begun basting satin ribbon onto the suit to replicate the Union Jack Flag.

Union Jack Playboy Bunny Uniform in progress.

As you can see I have the central cross section basted on, and will start laying in the angled sections soon.  

The costume arrived with ribbon, which was a nice time saver, but unfortunately I believe that one of the red ribbons is in the wrong width....so I am on the hunt for some 5/8" red satin ribbon which will match the red I already have.

My dress form is a little small in the waist for this size 8 suit which accounts for the bubbling going on...but notice how the ribbons go over and under each other?  Interesting I thought. 

 Once all the basting is done the hand applique will begin.

So there you have it...this week in the studio. 

 No progress has been made on my Jasmine blouse as of yet...maybe this weekend.

  I am such an optimist...

Elizabeths bit of Whimsey

 Our Darling Friend Elizabeth made this equally darling baby book for a friends child.  It is of her own design made from scraps she found in her fabric stash.  She discovered that, once again Betty is right  when she says "When you buy what you like, it will all go together".

 She was inspired by some simialar baby books she had seen on-line, but not wanting to deny herself the pleasure of designing her own, she set about searching for some simple applique patterns.

Next she found simple poems or nursery rhymes that suited the applique patterns she liked.

 She then printed those rhymes onto printable fabric sheets.

 Then backed the appliques and the rhymes with a fusible webbing.

 Fused them onto her background fabric and stitched around them.  She placed a layer of fusible batting between each page.  Created a book binding from varying widths of fabric strips and then bar tacked through the book binding layers to hold them all together.

Thank You Elizabeth for sharing this project with us and providing such wonderful photos for sharing.

Your book is Absolutely Adorable and Claire is sure to enjoy it for years to come.

What special gift projects are you planning for this summer?

Saturdays Sewing Cafe

As per usual Saturdays Sewing Cafe proved to be inspirational, productive and fun. It began with Sarah arriving first thing in the morning, excited to get to her sewing. Last time we were together Sarah had cut out her very first dress and learned about the tedium (some people think its tedious) of correctly marking all of her dots and notches. She bravely muscled through it but was really looking forward to the actual sewing part...you know the part that makes you feel like you might actually have a garment someday? The first thing she got to sew was 4 darts, 2 for the bodice and another 2 for the lining. Because we had done a fba for her and the bodice ends just below the bust line this created a very abrupt pointy dart....completely undesirable. 

The solution requires curving the dart legs.  The pencil line in this picture represents the original dart legs and the red line represents the required change.  This softens the shape and provides for a fuller bust.

Candy arrived next....very unusual as she usually arrives before I do, in fact when I didn't see her car parked out front, I wondered if I had the right day.  Seriously-lol 

But it was the right day and she was eager to make some progress on her winter coat...it is warming up you know?  She made great progress, setting her sleeves attaching her collars, then sewing her lining in.  Quite remarkable progress.

In the afternoon, we had 2 new Learn to Sew students arrive along with George.  George finished up the sleeves on his shirt, and got the hemming done.  His shirt reminds me of  the Lone Ranger

 

It is this same style but in a nice cream twill and without the welt pockets.  George is planning on tackling a corduroy sports coat next.  How exciting is that?

Our two new students a mother daughter team, Jessica and Susan learned how to use their machines, about the basic notions and supplies and how to sew and press a proper seam.  Once they had the basics down Jessica started on a dog jacket from a pattern by Green Pepper.  Interestingly she chose a leopard printed minky I have had my eye on for a hoodie, I kept trying to figure out how to work it into my active wear wardrobe, even though the colors were wrong.  I am not sure how I feel about the fact that its now keeping some nice family dog warm and cute...r.  Susan is a triathlete and wants to make a t-shirt quilt using all of her racing T's.  Fun!!

Elizabeth arrived mid-morning and I was completely out of the loop on what her days projects was going to be, but I knew she would surprise and charm us.  Her beau is a Star Wars fan, and he has a family member who is due to have a child of undetermined sex soon.  In enters Elizabeth and her keen desire for a unique gift.  One of her sewing books suggested appliqueing t-shirts for children, which she found perfectly charming..because it is, but of course now we need to tie in the Star Wars theme...right?  Of course.  After a brief artistic consultation, our designer produced these:

Now you know that if Elizabeth is involved a book is sure to follow.  So here you see the inspiration for these adorable onsies.  Each letter represents a planet in the "Star Wars" galaxy.  Can you guess which ones?  I will get you started, A is for Alderon...E is for_______________?

Using her Bernina machine she stategically stitched the name of each planet onto her fabric to create a cute patch. 

Well that's it for this weeks Sewing Cafe at Nicolet.  Our next Saturday class will be held on the 26th, and don't forget to sign up by this Thursday the 17th.

Student progress

 Technically this young girl is not one of my students, but I could not resist sharing a picture that Elizabeth shared with me. 

Elizabeth is mentoring this young girl in the art of sewing.  Here she is proudly displaying a very fancy sleep mask and her1st project the apron with a personal and unique pocket design.

It's a good feeling isn't it to see the smile that only making something yourself can bring.  Good job Elizabeth for sharing your skills with someone else. 

Check the schools where you live to see if they also offer a mentoring program.  You too could be sharing your sewing skills with an interested youth.  4-H also provides the opportunity for volunteering to teach sewing.

 Paula completed her drawstring active wear pants.  These pants were made using McCalls 4261, and they were easily completed during class time. 

Seeing as how Paula works out everyday I can only imagine how much of a work out these pants will get.


She is back from LA and looking forward to sharing her new fabric purchases with us. That will be something else to look forward to.

She also completed her skirt that she had started before leaving on her trip.  Thanks Paula for taking these pictures for us.

The skirt appears to be a linen color here, but its actually a silvery grey.  It has some lovely seaming to it which is reminiscent of a 30's bias gown, and its that seaming which provides the gracful sweep to the skirt.  We did have to alter the length of this skirt which was a bit tricky because of the circular shape of the pattern piece, but it looks like it turned out nicely. 

Peg is headed off to Daytona for her annual trip.  She made this bag for her knitting projects...its quite the satchel!  She modified an existing pattern adding the zippered closure, the dowls at the top, and the exteriour pocket.  She free motion quilted the canvas

 As always customized her zipper fob, and you gotta love the triangular tab...now thats going the extra distance yes?

Had to have a shot of her additional pockets inside.  This Satchel took her 3 full days to sew and its a beautiful example of Pegs work.  She loves designing, customizing and problem solving her way through all kinds of bags, totes, book covers, and organizers.



Great work to one and all!!

Saturday's class is sure to provide more inspiration and hopefully some additional pictures.

Saturday January 15th

This little Owl named Jeeves is Elizabeth's latest rogue project.  I fear she is enjoying her rogue projects so much we will hardly get to see her in class.  Now that would be rather sad, but unlikely....right?

I am pleased to confirm that Saturdays class on the 15th is a go.  Currently we have Candy, Judy, Paula, and Sarah joining us, which leaves us room for a few more.  You have until the 14th then to contact the college if you would like to sew with us.

Update on some of our friends:  Pam has not been able to have her knee surgery yet...and she is a little frustrated by that, she is still trying to do some sewing at home, and I actually got a peek at her sewing room...very clean and orderly, which comes as no surprise.  Unfortunately she is limited in her mobility until they can replace her knee cap and it may not be until the fall that she can return to classes.  I also "spoke" briefly with Chris who tells me his winter is going well and that he is making wool shirt/jackets for people out at the camp. 

See you soon, and keep sewing everyone,
Lynne

Elizabeths Rogue sewing

As some of you may already know Elizabeth has the audacity to sew when she is not in class!  Its shocking I realize, but we need not feel left out because she taunts me with photos of her creations.  The first were sent from a spa and resort...yes you heard correctly.  Apparently between facials and hot rock massages she started on her dolls, but the dolls only had appropriate spa wear and can not be shown to the general public without the proper undergarments on.  Once she returned home she was able to focus on a more public wardrobe.   So, let me properly introduce you to Laura and Mary Ingalls.  These precious sisters have hair made from wool felt and their aprons are cleverly made from old hankies.  I am told they will be presented on Christmas morning in their own special case, with the book "Little House on the Praire" and doll bed lovingly made by dad.  Which of course means they need bed clothes............

And here they are all ready to be tucked into bed.  Elizabeth you do our little sewing group proud.  Keep up the good work, especially your rogue sewing.   What little girl wouldn't treasure these?  Do you have a doll from childhood that brings back fond memories?  I know I do.