Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Eva Dress Contest - 1937 blouse #7482 Muslin

Here is the muslin for my Eva Dress Contest entry.

I love this blouse.  I was a little surprised by the amount of fullness in the sleeve cap and initially thought I would reduce it a touch.  But that would not be holding to the rules of the contest....and when I tried it on, it just looked great!  I love the way the neckline curves up onto the neck, don't you?
Chuck says "Wow! That is perfect for you...very nice"

I am pleased and looking forward to making it up in my wool challis.

Now about the pattern....
The instructions for sewing the neckline facing and attaching the lower bodice to the upper bodice are .....out of date, although possibly easier then how I chose to do it.  There is not a separate neck facing, just extensions along the front and back neck edge that get turned back and blind hemmed in place.

The instructions want you to overlap the shoulder seam - meaning fold back the seam allowance along the back shoulder, gather the front shoulder, Lay the folded back shoulder onto the front shoulder and edge stitch.

Here you can see the Blouse back, at least one shoulder and half  of the neck.
I stay stitched the edge, clipped into it and placed the front shoulder to the back shoulder with right sides together and stitched.  It is a bit tricky getting around that turn, similar to a shawl collar. Once both shoulder lines are sewn you can turn your facing back and blind stitch as suggested.
This technique is repeated to attach the lower blouse front to the upper, but again I placed right sides together and stitched.  You could certainly add the edge stitching after, if you like the look.

From here I will play with the gathering distribution on that sleeve cap, this might have been a misunderstanding of the patterns marks on my part.
Can you see the difference between the illustration and my muslin?  Yikes!

I also need to adjust the sleeve hem and placket which is simplicity itself as it has no placket piece, but has you create a placket from the under arm sleeve allowance and using hem tape to finish.  For authenticity's sake I will finish it that way.  The hem line though is uneven forming a peak at that underarm seam, which needs to be leveled out.  This might have occurred when I adjusted the length of the sleeve....I will be sure to post a tutorial on how to fix that simple and commonly found error.


  1. The sleeves are very poofy. Definitely a 30s look but much poofier than the illustration.

    Can't wait to see it in your fashion fabric. I bet it's going to be fabulous.

  2. I'm not a poufy sleeve cap fan, but it looks like a good style on that blouse. One of the attributes that always draws me to vintage styles, particularly the 30s, is the gorgeous necklines & unusual collars. This sort of neckline is one of my faves - can't wait to see the finished piece!

  3. This is SO LOVELY! Can't wait to see this all sewn up!

  4. Thank you ladies, I am pretty excited about this blouse. I have had the fabric in my stash for a long time and the color is just gorgeous. Started sewing it up yesterday...squeal.....

  5. Dear Lynne, I am a seamstress and I must say your work is very well fitted. I was looking at some tops and came across yours and decided I will make one for myself. from Perth Western Australia

    1. This is high praise indeed. Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts with us.


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