Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Pajama Pantaloon - Smocked Waist Tutorial

Today we will complete our Pajama Pantaloons by smocking the waistband and adding belt loops

We begin by finishing the top edge of our pantaloons using a 1/4" rolled hem. 

At your Pantaloon waist fold your hem to the wrong side 1/4" and press.

Fold over again and stitch along the left edge.

To create the smocking we will wind a bobbin with the elastic thread. 

Watch your thread as you wind the bobbin to make sure it doesn't "pop out" on you.  You want the thread under tension but the degree of tension isn't critical.

Once your bobbin is wound, thread the machine with your all purpose thread that matches through the needle and place the elastic thread bobbin....well in your bobbin case:)

We will now sew 4 rows of smocking starting at the waist hem edge and building rows to the left.

Sew the first row 1/2" from the edge and each row after that same distance apart.  My Bernina has this handy seam guide which can attach to the back of all of their feet.  Hold the fabric in front of the needle with some tension so the fabric lays smooth for you as you sew.

Next we will make our belt loops.
To begin cut a strip of fabric 1-1/8" x 25" long on the lengthwise grain line.
Press this strip in half along the long side, and then lay open flat on the ironing board.  The crease you just made is a reference point for the next step.

 Press the long cut edges into the center crease mark.

Press again in half so the cut edges are neatly folded into the center.

Edge stitch the strip along both long edges.

Cut you strip into  8 - 3"long pieces. 

Mark the  belt loop placement on your smocked waistband with pins. 
2 - 1" on either side of the Center Back seam
2 -  2" on either side of the Center Front seam.
 1  on each front waist  - 1" in front of each side seams.
1 on each side of the back waist between the center back and side seam.

With right sides facing sew the loops across the short end 1/4" from edge.

Flip the belt loops up into position turn under the short end 1/4" and stitch across the top to secure.  I lined mine up with the top edge of the smocking.

Congratulations!! Your Pajama Pantaloons are ready to snuggle in:)

I am loving mine, the waistband is so comfortable and they look much better then any of my comfy knit ones.  I will certainly be making a version for fall in a homespun I have in the stash.

I hope you have enjoyed makings yours.  Please feel free to leave a comment and tell us where we can see your completed Pantaloons.

Previous posts are linked below


  1. Ohhh, this is so adorable pajamas like all your job!

  2. Gorgeous! What type of fabric is that?

    Seeing these done up makes me want to make several pairs for the upcoming winter!

  3. Hey Jessica, the fabric is a cotton lawn from Moda that I was able to pick up at my local quilting store.

    Thanks for the kind remarks all:)


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