Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Friday, February 22, 2013

Vogue 8648 - Muslin

I have been enjoying my Craftsy Couture Dress Class with Susan Khalje immensely.
She is an excellent instructor, and I just love learning new tips!  Personally I like the couture process of hand stitches, basting, careful manipulation and complete control.  It brings order to a chaotic world and helps me calm down.  I appreciate that it is not for everyone, which is fine.  Hopefully there is room for everyone at the sewing table:)

This is my muslin for Vogue 8684.  One of the suggested patterns for the class

I made very few alterations initially to the pattern outside of my fba.

I like using my above bust measurement as the starting point and comparing that to the full bust on the pattern.  This generally provides the more secure fit that I prefer.
In this instance though it did require that I give myself more room all around..sigh. But if I had gone up one size it would have been to wide at the shoulder, so it all works out and this is the advantage to making your muslin.
I released the side seams 1/2" on both sides, but then took out a scant 1/4" on the skirt front princess seams.
The back princess seams were let out that same scant 1/4" from the hip line down to the hem.
I used my dress form for this initial fitting and look forward to seeing how they transfer to my actual body.
I will say its a dream for seeing proportion and balance.

This piece of merlot silk dupion is a possibility for this dress.  
Someone just might invite me to a cocktail party or wedding and I think this might be suitable.
Wouldn't it be nice to have a dress in my closet, ready to go, for just such a possibility?

I am currently playing with what grain lines I want to employ on this garment.  If I put the entire garment on the cross grain the slubby texture will run the length of my body.  The pattern calls for all of the side panels to be on the bias and I am not sure yet how I feel about this.  I do love the way the bias works but will I like the way it looks?  I am kind of leaning in that direction just because it sounds fun, but what it really sounds like is that its time to play with the fabric some, and take some more pictures:)

Any thoughts dear readers?

1 comment:

  1. I'm doing the same class and loving it also. Susan is such a lovely warm teacher. I am pondering the bias issue also. I'm using a navy silk and plan to cut the waistband in one piece front and back with the full skirt option. Your muslin is looking beautiful: must be heavenly to have a dress form that accurately reflects your actual shape (mine bears little resemblance and is really only good for doing hems). I think it's one of those issues that you need to have a play with the fabric and see how the different angles look, so I agree with you there. I don't think my fabric will look different on the bias/either way. I still haven't done a muslin yet. Been moving my sewing room and got sidetracked by subsequent cleaning/organizing bug.


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