Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Jasmine Blouse Review

The Jasmine blouse felt like a long journey, but I am pleased with the changes I made and look forward to hearing your thoughts on the project.
 It is my final Fall Palette Challenge piece, outside of a sweater I am still knitting.
 It's a good thing I am bringing my fall sewing to a close seeing as how we received our first snowfall this week....6" or more!  Most Alarming!

Jasmine blouse by Lynne Williams with revisions
 The fabric had a border pattern running across the grain about every 30" which required some planning. 
 I drew up a few sketches placing the border at various locations and ended up with this plan. 
 Placing it along the top of the pattern framed the neckline in front, and reminded me of a midi blouse.

Jasmine blouse by Lynne Williams with revisions
On the back you can see I placed the border just over the hem which I think accentuates the curves in my figure.

As mentioned in a prior post, the pattern is accurately made and the instructions are very easy to follow.  I can certainly recommend this pattern especially if you want to learn how to sew a bias cut garment.  
You will  learn  about working on the bias while keeping the project simple and not get yourself  overwhelmed.

I changed the length of the sleeve to fall below my elbow.  
A simple change - lengthen the sleeve pattern by the desired amount. 
Then I ran a gathering stitch around the hem edge and created a narrow 1/2" band to finish it.  
I used a strip from the border print to set it off.
My hem band was cut 2" x 9" and of course I cut 2.

I also brought the neckline in 1-1/2" towards my neck on each side.  I love the width of the original pattern, but it just was not flattering for my narrow little skull-lol, or maybe it is my lack of jaw....probably the combination.  If you can wear it wide by all means do so...its so lovely like that.

I also changed how the collar was made and assembled.  
The collar pattern has 2 parts a collar back and the collar front which lengthens into the tie. 
 You are instructed to cut 4 front collars and 2 back collars, like a standard collar.  Additionally it has a interfaced facing...front and back. 
 I am not a huge fan of facings, they tend to be difficult to control, additionally I did not think the collar laid particularly well, it wants to ripple along the outside edge.
Instead I chose to make the collar a sash cut on the bias and folded in half lengthwise. 
This causes the gentle roll, which lifts it upwards from the neckline and the outer edge lays nice with no rippling.

I then replaced the facing with a strip of self bias like you see on many knit necklines.

I plan on making another one of these blouses from one of my silks.  I just hope I have enough of this lovely periwinkle charmeuse I have had in my stash for about 20 years!!  It is one of those fabrics you love so much, you are afraid of doing the wrong thing with it. 

Do you have fabrics in your stash like that?.

My apologies for not having pictures of me wearing the blouse, its so much easier to slip it on my form and snap a picture and get blogging then setting up for a photo shoot.  I understand this is breaking a cardinal rule of good blogging...but it's so time it leaves me room for improvement-lol

Maybe one day I will have my act together enough to take wonderful fashion /location pictures like some of my favorite blogs....girls I think you know who you are.  I do so appreciate their day.


  1. As always, your impeccable technique and thoughtfulness in making this shine through! Everything about it looks yummy!

    I have way. too. many. "super-duper-special" fabrics in my stash. Must do something about that. One is actually earmarked for an upcoming project...we'll see if the scissors actually make it onto the fabric ;-D

  2. Nice! I put Jasmine on my Christmas list. (And if someone doesn't buy it for me I'm going to buy it for myself!)

  3. @ Jilly Be - Have you shared them in a post? Maybe we should have a "Fabrics we love, but are afraid to cut into" round robin?

    @ Stephanie - The Jasmine blouse will look great on you, hope you get your gift:)

  4. This looks great! I love the placement of the border print, and I like the width of the neckline more than in the original pattern. Really a pretty blouse, and very feminine.

  5. I love it! Your version is gorgeous!

  6. Lynne that's a great idea! I'm THIS close to being done with the Peony Vest (might even happen today!), & I'll put a 'fear of fabrics' post on my ToDo list :)

  7. I love your version! You are so clever, I admire your ability to control the fabrics and get those impeccable finish.

  8. I love this blouse! The placement of the border print worked out beautifully, and yup, I'm sure accentuates a ladies figure beautifully at teh back. I really like how you used the contrast for sleeve binding too. The inside details are impeccable!
    And yes, I have fabrics that frighten me too... silly, isn't it?

  9. This is so gorgeous ! The colors are so beautiful for Fall and that fabric is beautiful. I stumbled across my blog while looking for a photo of Mccall's 5927! Would you like to stop by my blog SewCountryChick on Saturday and post your project on my sewing linky party?

  10. Very beautiful and I love the way you have worked the border detail on the fabric into the garment. Lovely. I learn something(s) new every time I read one of your posts.

  11. Thanks for the great explanation of the bias cut collar. I'm just about to make my second Jasmine and I'm going to use your method this time for something different. So glad I found your blog. Your blouse is beautiful and I love the changes you made, the fabric, the finish, it's all lovely.

  12. Hi Lynne. I've finished my blouse! I blogged about it here if you want to see.

    1. Whoops. is "here".


Please share your thoughts with Lynne

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