To the Beach Quilt Stat!

My goal for many years now has been to have seasonal bedding.  In Wisconsin that means winter and summer, and summer is really more like an extended spring, which is why we still need quilts on our beds. 

The first quilt I made for our bed was definitely for winter, but I have yearned to lighten the palette for the spring and summer months, make something that felt resort like. Chuck is from Florida and the thing he misses the most about his home state....the beaches

Now I understand why. 

 This looks warm and inviting whereas in my home state of California we have.....

Rocky beaches with cold dark water and vicious currents.

Feel free to scroll back up to that Floridian beach to help you get over the chill that has just set in before you continue to the actual quilt project.

Charlotte Angotti

This is the pattern I am using as my launching point.  It is called "The Natural" by Charlotte Angotti.

The pattern is for a 60 x 72" quilt but I need it for a queen bed with a very deep mattress.

This change in size required adding a pattern repeat horizontally and vertically.

If  I did my math correctly the quilt will require 265 half square triangle units and 144 four patch units!

It took 2 sessions to get all my strips and squares cut from my batik scraps but don't these colors remind you of the sea?

  

My set up at the machine for sewing the half square triangle units.  After I have sewn a dozen or so, I cut press and square.

My first batch!  Does this say beach to you?  This is the exciting part about quilting, when you see your color choices come together.  Now I am anxious to do more, but for now it's back to capes, cowls and alterations

My plan is to do 30 minutes a day of piecing, which should get me a quilt top in no time:)....no time at all - lol

Eva Dress Contest - Blouse 7482 Complete

 So happy with the way this blouse turned out. Very flattering style and so comfortable to wear. 

 I tried to make it authentic to the period (1938), which is to say no serging/ overlocking inside.  Instead I zig-zagged the seams with the fine thread at the bottom of the picture and used an all purpose for the seaming.  I thought about hand casting the seams.....but having just completed the Indygo jacket, got over it:)

 I looked on line for suitable buttons but in the end decided to cover some 7/16" half domes.  

The pattern shows you how to create button loops from thread, but I decided to make self fabric loops. 

This shows a close up shot of the buttons and spaghetti which makes up the loops.  The 2 buttons on the left are face up and the 2 button on the right show the back.  The buttons required 2 layers of fabric so the metal would not shine through.  This meant that there was to much bulk to snap the metal backs on...they just kept popping off..which meant I needed to do a proper job and cover the back of the button as well.  I am so glad that I did.  Don't they look pretty?

I interfaced the facing, front and back with 1" strips of silk organza.  I did not follow the directions for assembly of the shoulder seams but reinforced the seam first with stay stitching, clipped into it and sewed it with right sides together, just as you would for a shawl collar. 

The pattern has you tie a bow at the front, but I felt the single loop was a little less bulky and contemporary looking.  The bow is very cute though and when I make it again in a chiffon I will more then likely do so.  In the wool it just felt a tad bulky to me.

Look at this awesome picture I found while looking for garments of the period.  This is the cover of Du Barry Fashions in 1938.  A very similar style in the same color.  Mine photographs much brighter but really reads this color in natural light.  Now I just need those fabulous gloves!

After filling out my project worksheet I found this garment cost me $24.10

The blouse requires 1-5/8 yard and I used a wool I had in my stash that was gifted to me by a client so there is no fabric price reflected in my total.  I probably would have included it if I could remember what she paid for it...but alas that paperwork was filed eons ago..in a galaxy far far away.  One of the benefits of sewing for others is you are sometimes left with usable "scraps"....Oh Joy!

For more information about this project see post list below:

How it all began

Blouse Muslin and pattern post

Sleeve hem correction - minor

Sleeve pattern correction

Remember my annoyance with this sleeve hem ?  Your hems in general should be level with your wrist or if its a skirt parallel to the floor. This is always the case unless you have an obvious design feature as seen with the new swallowtail hems or those elegant sleeve points which fall down over the hand and attach to your ring finger.

But I am looking for a standard and correct sleeve hem and so I will need to make some adjustments to my Eva Dress 7482 pattern.  So lets begin.....

This is what my sleeve hem looked like after making up the muslin.  The dotted line is my hem line.  The seam running up the center is my underarm seam which forms the placket at the hem.  In modern patterns the placket is sewn as a extra piece.  On this vintage pattern the buttons are purely decorative and this little placket closes up with a few snaps. 

I begin by pinning my sleeve seam together along the stitch line.  I can/need only do this for a few inches. Its a little awkward as it does not want to lay flat if I continue pinning to far up the seam.  

Once I do this I can see that where the seam lays, it needs to be about 3/8" longer to be even with the front hemline.

Because my pattern tracing is done on household wax paper I can simply take a strip of wax paper and add it to the sleeve hem by pressing with an iron.

If you use paper of course you can tape your strip on.

Now I re-pin my sleeve seam....

 

Turn it over and cut through all layers along the front hem cutting line.

In this picture you can see where the buttons are supposed to go.

 I open my sleeve once again and I can see my new curved hem line.

Now  I trim the excess wax paper off the sleeve seam.

This is my new correctly shaped hem and my sleeve is ready to be cut out:)

By the way that is my blouse fabric that the pattern is laying on, my favorite shade of red

Do you have pattern alterations that you commonly make that are not related to fitting?

Eva Dress Contest - 1937 blouse #7482 Muslin

Here is the muslin for my Eva Dress Contest entry.

I love this blouse.  I was a little surprised by the amount of fullness in the sleeve cap and initially thought I would reduce it a touch.  But that would not be holding to the rules of the contest....and when I tried it on, it just looked great!  I love the way the neckline curves up onto the neck, don't you?

Chuck says "Wow! That is perfect for you...very nice"

I am pleased and looking forward to making it up in my wool challis.

Now about the pattern....

The instructions for sewing the neckline facing and attaching the lower bodice to the upper bodice are .....out of date, although possibly easier then how I chose to do it.  There is not a separate neck facing, just extensions along the front and back neck edge that get turned back and blind hemmed in place.

The instructions want you to overlap the shoulder seam - meaning fold back the seam allowance along the back shoulder, gather the front shoulder, Lay the folded back shoulder onto the front shoulder and edge stitch.

Here you can see the Blouse back, at least one shoulder and half  of the neck.

I stay stitched the edge, clipped into it and placed the front shoulder to the back shoulder with right sides together and stitched.  It is a bit tricky getting around that turn, similar to a shawl collar. Once both shoulder lines are sewn you can turn your facing back and blind stitch as suggested.
This technique is repeated to attach the lower blouse front to the upper, but again I placed right sides together and stitched.  You could certainly add the edge stitching after, if you like the look.

From here I will play with the gathering distribution on that sleeve cap, this might have been a misunderstanding of the patterns marks on my part.
Can you see the difference between the illustration and my muslin?  Yikes!

I also need to adjust the sleeve hem and placket which is simplicity itself as it has no placket piece, but has you create a placket from the under arm sleeve allowance and using hem tape to finish.  For authenticity's sake I will finish it that way.  The hem line though is uneven forming a peak at that underarm seam, which needs to be leveled out.  This might have occurred when I adjusted the length of the sleeve....I will be sure to post a tutorial on how to fix that simple and commonly found error.

The Eva Dress Contest - The 1937 Blouse begins

Last week I mentioned the Eva Dress contest and showed you the 1940's Playsuit pattern I am planning on making into Gardening Overalls.  

Today I thought I would share my other possible entry this 1937  Blouse which I plan on entering in the 3rd Category, which is described as: The Best use of pattern in its original form.  The garment must follow the pattern devoutly (meaning no changes to the design, although grading or alteration for proper fit are appropriate.

The pattern number is 7482 and it is available in a size 16 (34" bust)

This of course is my project worksheet for said blouse.

I am making it from a lovely burnt red wool challis.

Needless to say though before I can cut into my fabulous fabric I must trace the pattern and sew up a muslin,   This is strongly recommended on the pattern as these are original period patterns.  This means that the markings are minimal and unfamiliar to the contemporary seamstress, and the sizing my be different as well. 

I traced my pattern out onto wax paper, a method I often use as its very transparent , inexpensive. It's easy to make as wide as needed by simply overlapping the sheets by a few inches and ironing. 

I found it helpful to refer to the sewing directions as I was tracing to insure I was understanding the marks.  The pattern included a nice diagram of each pattern piece with additional information written on it.  For instance where the gathering happens between dots the diagram will say "gather", the grain lines and hems are marked with dots, but the diagram helps you to understand which is which.

The pattern only has 5 pieces and the construction looks very straight forward although again a little different then contemporary methods, but I will talk more about that as I move into the construction.

Upon measuring the pattern I found the actual pattern measurements to be:

Bust - 37"

Waist - 33"

Hem Circumference - 37"

Center Back to waist length - 17"

Sleeve length - 25"

The only pattern alteration I made at this stage was to shorten the sleeve 2".  1" above the elbow and 1" below.  The bust may prove a little small for me and the waist a little large but I will sew up the muslin before I make those changes.

Hope to see you soon with the muslin...wouldn't it be nice if I could get that sewn up this weekend:)

What will you be sewing this weekend?

Have you ever made any of the Eva Dress patterns?

Will you be entering this years contest?

Eva Dress contest & Sewing Project Organization

Today I thought I would share with you how I catalog my sewing projects and  ideas.  When the pieces start coming together for a project I like to organize them in such a way that I can track my time, ideas and expenses.  I do this for clients as well as my personal sewing.  

It begins with a form I made which was inspired by Roberta Carr's worksheet as found in:

 "Couture The Art of Fine Sewing"

You are welcome to download my form and use it for your projects.  You can find the form here

For the Eva Dress Contest I am planning on making this 1940 playsuit

  

My plans for these overalls are to use them for gardening although I am seriously haunted by making silk pajamas as well.  

Just Imagine how luxurious I would feel wearing a silk charmeuse playsuit with my Indigo Junction bed jacket?  

Can you say "Mr D'Mille I am ready for my close up"?

Alas the sensible side of me says I need something fashionable and serviceable to garden in.  Which would mean cotton lined linen overalls with some cargo type pockets to carry tools.  I also want to be able to roll the hem up, to keep them out of the water.  In order to accommodate that I will add some straps inside the side seam which will button to the outside side seam.  Not sure yet what I will use for the jacket, which I will most likely need.  A lightweight cotton shirting would  suit as it would protect me from the sun and bugs.

 I put in as much information as I have to begin and then I will add to the worksheet as I progress. 

 Under the Pattern Alterations I make notes about size changes I make. 

 The Design changes is where I list...well changes I want to make from the original design of the pattern.  As I am doing that I will make notes about any special cutting issues I might need to consider and list them under Cutting notes.

I think you get the idea:)

At this stage of the project nothing is written in stone. The sheet serves as a reminder and reference.  I slip the sheet into a sheet protector and place it in my project notebook. When I want to start something new, usually as I am finishing up some other project I will flip through my notebook and see what beckons.   As I finish them I move them to the back of the notebook so I can refer to them later.   Sometimes I think I know what I want to do with a particular fabric and I create a project sheet for it, but I can always change my mind later if I find different pattern or need.   

I like to use these when shopping for additional trims and notions all the info is available and easy to carry along.  Once I start working on them I pin them to my bulletin board for a constant visual reminder.  Currently I have 4 of them pinned and in progress.

Do you have a way you like to organize your sewing projects or would you rather not bother and just dig in?