Sewing Cafe

Patterns, Tutorials and Works in Progress from the Sewing Studio of Lynne Williams

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

Replica Robin Mask

Boy Wonder mask offered by Lynne Williams - Williams Studio 2

I just listed 2 of these Replica Robin masks on my Etsy store. 
 These masks are made using the same pattern and fabric that Burt Ward approved and that used to sell on his official fan website.  They are made from a polyester fabric, lined with a satin, and interfaced.  They are adjustable to fit, just like the original, with elastic and a hook & eye closure.  

Henchman mask offered by Lynne Williams - Williams Studio 2

Of course you can wear them with your Robin costume, but they also work nicely as a henchmen accessory.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Fall Color

One week ago I posted a fall wardrobe picture, with little fall color... But what a difference a week can make in the North Woods.  So even though this outfit is not part of this years fall sewing challenge I had to post a picture to show you our developing fall color.

I am not a participant in the Self Stitched September Challenge although I applaud the efforts of the many women who are.  I just might be able to pull off the goal of wearing a self stitched item for everyday in September...a worthy goal, but the idea of having to post all those pictures terrifies me.  That's a lot of work.  

This outfit is self stitched though.  
The dress is a Vogue easy options #8233(now out of print apparently). made from a bargain buy at JoAnns. 
 My mom was with me on that day and insisted I purchase this fabric for myself.  My mother has never been wrong about these things, so I have learned to listen to her prodding.

The jacket is by a favorite instructor of mine, Claire Shaeffer and is offered through Vogue, # 8333
A few years ago I taught a tailored jacket class and this was my sample.  Its made from a wool crepe.  My only frustration with this jacket is the hair canvas I used for interfacing was stiffer then it should be.  I sold all of the appropriate weight to the students and tried to make do.....never do that when you are investing the time it requires to hand tailor a jacket.  
That's my tip for the day - lol

Are you enjoying your Fall weather, or for my friends and family on the other side of our fair planet...your spring weather?

What is your favorite season to sew for?

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Caped Crime Fighter Cape - Cutting and Marking

Your replica Batman cape should now be altered and ready for cutting.

Before we begin...
We need to discuss that satin can be directional meaning  the color will appear darker in one direction over the opposing direction....say what?

To demonstrate....mark one cut end of you satin "top"

Notice that when I flip one around how it catches more light then the other.  This property of satin if not addressed can make your garment look like it has been sewn with two different colors.  It is sometimes difficult to see in small pieces,  tragic when seen in larger sections.  I always advise avoiding the possibility altogether by careful cutting.

To begin  cut or tear your satin into 4 lengths of 60" each. Label the top of each length as you proceed to insure that your satin is running in the same direction for all of your pattern pieces.
To help conserve fabric you will be placing the pattern pieces in opposing directions as the lay out shows.  You will use one direction for your "face" or outer layer, and the other direction for your lining layer.
Being careful that you end up with 2 front , 2 front linings, 2 back and 2 back linings.

 Lay out both your cape front and back as the pattern instructs, but you will only be able to get one set out, the 2nd set will be cut from your other 2 lengths.

 With dressmakers carbon mark your seam allowances  and scallops on the wrong side of all 4 pieces.

  Additionally you will need to mark your snap location with tailor tacks.
 I like to use light blue thread for the male snaps and pink thread for the female snaps.

 You can now cut your pieces along the cutting lines except for the scallop hem.
For this I leave a generous edge around until I have fused the bias tape along the scallop.
Be sure to label your cut pieces by placing a low tack masking tape on the wrong side of the fabric, to insure you do not confuse your lining pieces with your face/outer pieces.

Repeat this with the other 2 lengths, laying the pattern pieces in the opposite direction of the first set.
Mark your seam allowances again with dressmakers carbon, tailor tack your snap placement and label each piece. 
The fusible bias tape used to control the seams.
Next to insure that our front edge stays crisp and hangs correctly and that the scallops in the hem retain their proper shape we will fuse a wonderful product called Design Plus bias fusible along our stitch lines in critical sections.

 You will iron this tape centering it over your stitch line down the center front on the face/outer side only.

You will than iron the tape along the inside edge of your marked hem.
 If you are using a taffeta like satin you may only need to do this on your face/outer side.  If you are using a silk satin or light weight poly satin you will want to fuse both your face/outer and lining hems.
 I highly recommend you do a test scallop on your fabric to determine what will be required.

Leaving the excess fabric makes the hem more stable and less likely to change shape as you press.
Additionally you can  keep the pattern pinned to the fabric just above the marked line. The tissue will help it retain its shape.
 Once you have it fused  your bias tape on you can trim off the excess fabric right along the edge of the bias tape.  Because this tape is cut on the bias it forms around the curves beautifully as you press it and will now stabilize the scallop shape for the finished hem technique.

In the next installment we will sew the cape and master that tricky hem.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
Should I start a Flickr group so you can post pictures of your progress or completed items?

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Fall Sew Along - Moss skirt complete


This looks like fall, at least my outfit does.  Here in Wisconsin it feels like fall and it certainly smells like fall, but we are just beginning to see some color.  I find this encouraging because I still have so much fall sewing to do that it will be fun to see the garments develop as the color does.

It started to rain on us a bit as Chuck was taking these pictures before I headed off to the Kingdom Hall for the Sunday talk.  

A reminder of my fall inspiration.    

I need to find some of the blue in this picture in a blouse weight....I really need some blouses!

The silk blouse I am wearing was from this vintage Vogue pattern, which was not vintage when purchased in the 80's..sigh.

The apricot silk was also purchased in the 80's from International Silks and Woolens a favorite haunt of mine from my days in California.

Both were tenderly packed and brought to Wisconsin.  I did not originally purchase the silk for this pattern specifically, but kept saving it for "just the right thing"   and to think all the time I had them both-lol.   I made the blouse a year of two ago, and I do love it with this skirt.  I have plans to make the short sleeve version on this pattern as well from a black silk jacquard by Ralph Lauren...hope I can accomplish this before the pattern is considered an antique!

This is my husbands favorite shot, so I had to include it.

The belt is leather, another item I have had since the early 80's

The shoes were a "find" on Pinterest, which led to a purchase at 

For my next Fall item I have started the pumpkin wool vest and I would like to make another vest from this skirt fabric as well, I have just enough left thrilling.  But blouses..yes blouses.

Are you drawn to certain weights of fabrics over others?  I am thinking I must be, because I have a serious lack of blouse weight fabrics in my stash....hmm, yet I can always find something to make a jacket from:)

What is your favorite item to make? 
  • dresses?
  • tops?
  • pants?
  • jackets?
  • skirts?
  • Home decor?

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Caped Crime Fighter - Cape Alterations

 Look familiar Bat Fans?

 Here we have a replica Batman cape from the Iconic 66' Batman t.v. show starring Adam West.  This cape is made from a Poly Satin, is self lined and made from Williams Studio 2 Caped Crime Fighter Pattern...from yours truly:)

As you can see the cape is not particularly full and the pattern fits a  40- 42" chest.  If you are larger then this you will want to alter the pattern to fit your larger chest size.

Today I will show you how to accomplish this.

This shows the back of the cape in the Poly Satin.

The cape length is 51-3/4" from the back neckline to the end of the center point, which should just graze the top of your boot in the back. Adam was 6'2 and slim of build.  If you are more barrel chested but the same height you might require more length.
 See Why at Fashion Incubator

The width around the cape below the shoulder is 52"

Measure around your chest and arms to get a width measurement .

To alter your pattern you will need:

  • WS1002 Caped Crime Fighter Pattern
  • Tape measure
  • Tape - My preferred tape is soft cloth tape as found in the pharmacy/bandage section.  It does not tear the tissue, remains flexible, and can be removed if needed.  
  • Pens - Blue and Red
  • Rulers - A fashion ruler if you have one is helpful
  • Paper/tissue - golden threads, newsprint, tissue,
  • Your personal measurements - width and center back length

To begin remove your cape front and back pattern pieces from the tissue.  You do not want to cut out on the line, but just around the pattern pieces.  Press them to remove any folds and wrinkles with a dry iron. 

Now I am afraid we need to do some math...
 Fortunately for us I have a client I am currently making a cape for and so we will use his measurements as an example, but you will of course need to adjust accordingly.
  My clients chest/arm measurement is 62" which means we need to add 10" in width and we need to make it 1/2" longer.

To  maintain the correct look of the cape you need to add evenly around slashing and spreading through the center of each hem scallop.  
Mark a line(indicated by the blue vertical lines above) that begins at the mid point of each scallop and extends up through the shoulder line. 
 One of these lines will run along the dotted stitch line at the side seam.  
Mark another line(shown in red) perpendicular to the grain line(short black line) on the pattern.
Repeat this for both front and back pattern pieces.

Let's now determine how to divide the amount we need to add to our circumference.
Our pattern is only half of the garment, so begin by dividing the total amount required in half. Since I am adding 10", half of that is 5" 
Half of the pattern has 5 hem scallops and so I divide my 5" by 5. 
 This means I need to add or spread each vertical line by 1"
The scallop along the side seam falls into the center, so we will add 1/2 the total between the 2 side seams.  For me this means 1/2" along each side seam, adding 1" total.  

Still with me.....Cut narrow strips of your extra paper. I had some Golden Threads in the studio so I cut narrow strips that were slightly longer then the length of the pattern.

Cut your pattern along one of your  blue vertical lines, tape a narrow strip of extra paper along one edge.  
Extend your Red line across the strip and place a cross mark the amount you need to spread.  That is 1" for me.  Tape your pattern back together maintaining the correct spread width along the length and being very careful that your red line remains straight as well.  Once you have taped the front, turn the pattern over and place tape along the back of the pattern as well.  Repeat this step for the 4 blue lines that run through the body of the pattern.

Your shoulder line will be all a jumble now, so you need to redraw it, or blend it.

This is where a fashion ruler can come in handy, it has a nice gentle curve on it for pattern drafting.

Next we need to lengthen or shorten our cape.  If you are lengthening you will cut along your red line and spread it as you did the others the desired amount.  For my cape that was 1/2".
To shorten draw another line above your red line the amount you need to shorten the cape.  Now fold the red line up to the new line and tape securely.

Once the length is adjusted we can finish spreading our pattern by cutting along the side seam stitch line, starting at the bottom and cutting up to the shoulder curve point.  Do not cut through the pattern here, but leave a hinge so that you can spread the seam open the desired amount.  That is 1/2" for me, or half of the total amount you did on the other spreads.

This is about what your finished pattern piece will look like when you are done. 

Congratulations on altering your cape pattern.  If you have any questions please feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer them for you promptly.

Now that you pattern is ready I highly recommend you cut it out and sew it up in muslin or waste cotton so that you can make sure the width and length are correct for you.  You do not need to sew up the lining, a single layer should give you a good idea of  the over all fit.  Remember the front of the cape does not overlap at the chest. 

Friday, September 16, 2011

The Little Black Dress - A sewing class at Nicolet

We have an upcoming sewing class which begins on Oct 1st and runs every Saturday through Oct 22.  It features a little black dress of your choice.  So although this class has a theme I encourage everyone to find a style and fabric that excites them.  I will be there to help with achieving the perfect fit, and demystifying working with linings, zippers, interlinings, and pattern alterations. 
 So what is your perfect dress and where does it need to take you?

This is the Iconic Black Dress from "Breakfast at Tiffany's" worn by Audrey Hepburn

 designed by Givenchy.

Imagine this dress in a cocktail length with that beautiful back detail.  In a nice wool it could be worn to work with a sweater or blazer and then out to dinner with diamonds and heels.

The little black dress or lbd as it is commonly referred to is considered a wardrobe essential.   Generally it has simple classic lines which can be easily accessorized.
 To be truly useful  it must be able to go from day to evening. 

Dramatic necklines are always good!

It need not be black at all, some prefer a deep brown, or a navy blue.   You can choose a dark neutral that works well with your coloring and existing wardrobe.

Vogue is offering some intriguing possibilities...

Vogue 8685 - Lots of different possibilities here.
This is an " Easy Options" dress and requires a moderate stretch knit.

Vogue 1192 - This is an Anne  Klein Design.
The ruching is always good in hiding a tummy.
 It's lined and  requires a woven fabric.  The suggested  fabrics are a silk crepe or heavy Georgette.  I would also add a wool crepe, or lightweight suiting.

 Vogue 8687 - This vintage vogue pattern comes with a beautiful coat and the suggested fabrics are: Crepe, Shantung, Linen or Faille.

I found these options on McCall's
McCall's 5927 - The pockets are a nice option.
This dress is lined and the pattern includes different bust cup sizes:) 
The suggested fabrics are: Linen, Lace, wool suiting and crepe.

McCall's 6032 - For those who like comfort and easy care.
This pattern requires a stretch knit, is labeled " easy" and is sized up to W24.

McCall's 6074 - Super quick and comfy. 
 This dress would make up nicely in a slinky or jersey and does require a moderate stretch knit. 
I made this dress this summer in a navy slinky, in the Maxi length and its a great basic!

This is what I found just at Vogue and McCall's but be sure to check out:
let's not forget vintage

Are you planning on joining the fun? 
Let me know what pattern you have chosen, and  if you would like help finding the right fabric.
  I am looking forward to sewing with you in Oct.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Pajama Pantaloon - Smocked Waist Tutorial

Today we will complete our Pajama Pantaloons by smocking the waistband and adding belt loops

We begin by finishing the top edge of our pantaloons using a 1/4" rolled hem. 

At your Pantaloon waist fold your hem to the wrong side 1/4" and press.

Fold over again and stitch along the left edge.

To create the smocking we will wind a bobbin with the elastic thread. 

Watch your thread as you wind the bobbin to make sure it doesn't "pop out" on you.  You want the thread under tension but the degree of tension isn't critical.

Once your bobbin is wound, thread the machine with your all purpose thread that matches through the needle and place the elastic thread bobbin....well in your bobbin case:)

We will now sew 4 rows of smocking starting at the waist hem edge and building rows to the left.

Sew the first row 1/2" from the edge and each row after that same distance apart.  My Bernina has this handy seam guide which can attach to the back of all of their feet.  Hold the fabric in front of the needle with some tension so the fabric lays smooth for you as you sew.

Next we will make our belt loops.
To begin cut a strip of fabric 1-1/8" x 25" long on the lengthwise grain line.
Press this strip in half along the long side, and then lay open flat on the ironing board.  The crease you just made is a reference point for the next step.

 Press the long cut edges into the center crease mark.

Press again in half so the cut edges are neatly folded into the center.

Edge stitch the strip along both long edges.

Cut you strip into  8 - 3"long pieces. 

Mark the  belt loop placement on your smocked waistband with pins. 
2 - 1" on either side of the Center Back seam
2 -  2" on either side of the Center Front seam.
 1  on each front waist  - 1" in front of each side seams.
1 on each side of the back waist between the center back and side seam.

With right sides facing sew the loops across the short end 1/4" from edge.

Flip the belt loops up into position turn under the short end 1/4" and stitch across the top to secure.  I lined mine up with the top edge of the smocking.

Congratulations!! Your Pajama Pantaloons are ready to snuggle in:)

I am loving mine, the waistband is so comfortable and they look much better then any of my comfy knit ones.  I will certainly be making a version for fall in a homespun I have in the stash.

I hope you have enjoyed makings yours.  Please feel free to leave a comment and tell us where we can see your completed Pantaloons.

Previous posts are linked below

Thursday, September 8, 2011

Fall Wardrobe - Moss Wool Skirt in progress

Today I am grateful for being able to sew on my Fall Challenge skirt. 

 Yesterday our water heater died a horrible death, bleeding out onto my studio floor.  Can you say inconvenient? 
 I had just completed a Wonder Woman Tiara for a client and decided to finish up the day by working on my skirt, when I noticed this dark patch in front of my ironing table...hmm that's odd I thought....which quickly turned into an expensive and frantic afternoon and evening...sigh. 
So yes, I am very grateful for a quiet day of personal sewing:)

Today's sewing went well.
All of the elements are sewn and most of them together....that's my waistband hanging vertically which  needs to be basted to the skirt for another fitting.

The hem sections are cut on the bias faced with Ambiance lining and under stitched. It has two darts on the front of the skirt and four on the back with an invisible zipper placed at the center back seam. The waistband will lap once attached.

In thinking through the process I was a little concerned about the bulk which would be created by all of the hem elements, as well as how and where the lining would end.  Inspiration hit upon sewing the longest layer to the lining and sewing the rest to the skirt.  This adds weight to both sections and will provide a nice clean finish for the edges and some short swing tacks will keep the lining and skirt in proper alignment.

I am quite pleased with the days sewing. 

Now I am trying to adjust to my new progressive lens which I picked up during lunch today.  Peg was kind enough to drive me in...a good thing, because I still feel a bit like a drunken sailor...well maybe not as fun as that, but a kind of moving ship thing....

What did you sew today?
What did you dream about sewing today?

Do you have bi-focals or progressive?

 Other Fall Wardrobe posts:

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Vintage Sewing Treasures

Recently I went Jumble shopping ( as our British friends would say) with a student who had found a pink sewing machine by Stradivarius.  Really!  That milky 50's pink. 
But more on that later.

What I found were the little gems above. 
 The star of the show is really that little travel iron which looks as if it has never been used and came in a matching zippered vinyl carry case.  I purchased this for my husband:)
Really I did....he will use it for making bat cowls, pressing the ears and seams. 
Obviously this would make a great travel iron for sewing class and I understand that they are in demand with people who like  to laminate. 
 Do you know any other uses?

In the green case, I can never resist that one of the best buttonhole makers ever put on the market.  It's by singer and uses cams and a straight stitch machine.  Don't despair if you don't own a old singer as it can be used on just about any machine.  ( just be careful that you pick up a straight shank, and not the slant, unless of course you have a Singer slant needle)  One of the advantages to this buttonholer (are you aware this is not a word...who knew) is that it can handle thick fabrics and scoffs at bulky edges.  It does have some size limitations because you are using cams, not dialing in the length, but there is a great assortment of cams to search for.

The 3rd item is my little press mitt, in the original (battered) box.  This is one of those pressing aids I have wanted for quite a while, thought about making  one...never did and would generally substitute with my bare hand...honestly or maybe a wad of fabric from the muslin bin...Shocking I know, but now I have the real deal, it was a bit musty, but some Fabreeze took care of that and now its ready to work.

Now back to that Stradivarius....
My student was looking for a 2nd machine, Okay in reality she saw the pink machine and thought "Lynne says it always good to have a 2nd machine so maybe I should buy this pink one" lol
You know you have done that too:)
 I like to  recommend the old solid metal dependable and simple sewing machines from the past.  No electronics to fry, super heavy, with a nice deep throat which makes them great for free motion by the way and affordable.  I have a 401 slant needle in the studio that is Peg's (my sewing side kick) machine of choice. 
They feed better generally then the new entry level machines you find on the market today.  They make great first machines as well. 

I will try to get a picture of the Stradivarius when it returns from the repair man who is doing a clean and oil on it.  It will make you swoon.

I would like to dedicate this post to Jillybe who provided the inspiration for this vintage post.  You can  see her favorite vintage sewing notion on her blog post.

Happy sewing everyone.

Do you have an old dependable machine in your sewing room? 
Was it passed down to you?

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Fall Wardrobe - Moss Wool skirt

Remember this dress from the Mad Men challange?

And remember this moss wool, and skirt inspiration that I want to make for fall?

Now that I have spent the necessesary time and effort to fit the dress, I can create my skirt using the skirt from the dress pattern. 

 The changes I will need to make are: 
Style changes :
  1.  Narrow the skirt towards the hemline, so it creates a little more of a pencil skirt, but not to much because this can quickly add up to me looking hippy and drawing attention to the fact that my legs are less then elegantly long.
  2. Create the hem detail
Pattern changes:
  1. Create a waistband
  2. Adjust the ease at the waist appropriate for a skirt.  Did you know that dresses require 1.5" of ease at the waist where a skirt only requires 3/4"?  So I need to lose 3/4" of ease.
I began with the pattern changes.  Trimming a fat 1/8" off of each side seam takes care of the additional ease.  Then tapering that down to 1/2" at the hem, which I am hoping will provide a hint of my pencil look, but the muslin will let me know if I am correct about that or not.

The hem detail is next and for that I cut off 3" from the bottom of the skirt, carefully labeling so I don't get the front and back confused. 

slashing and spreading to add fullness to 1/4 section of skirt hem band

It looks to me like the hem detail has a touch of the flounce to it, and so I make four cuts into each pattern piece, leaving a hinge where it joins the skirt and spreading the hemline.  I spread each one 1/4" is all because I don't want a ruffle, just a bit of a flip.

Time for the muslin, which stitches up quickly.  I grab my shoes and my husband, who is great help with judging proportions for me, slip into the skirt.....and decide....I was correct about the "pencil" amount, as well as the spread on the hem band..."and there was much rejoicing". 

The length however need to come up a bit,  to just below the knee which meant shortening the skirt by 1.5".

Now that, that is decided I can make my additional hem band pieces, as it has 3 layers of unequal width and length.  I trace my hem band twice, layer them and cut them to pleasing shapes. 
 Nothing to it:)

Time to cut some wool.  Surprisingly when I went to cut my fabric I discovered I did not have an appropriate length of lining that would suit.  Although a little frustrated by the delay I will console myself with the thought that it simply means I must be effectively reducing my stash....don't you think? 
 In the meantime I will go paint my daughters bedroom, which will now be called the "Guest room"

Won't this skirt look great with this wonderful jacket I made a few years back(goodness back when my hair was long even) from a Vintage Vogue pattern and an Angora wool blend houndstooth I picked up at Ginnys Fine Fabrics

Fall Essentials and Palette challenge Post 1
Additional fabric contenders for Fall Essentials and Palette challenge Post 2

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Wonder Boy Trunk Tutorial

Voila' Trunks fit for your helpful side kick. 

Now lets learn the finer points of sewing them up.

Due to Chucks mighty hunting powers, we are fortunate enough to have some original cotton spring weave fabric which has been dyed to match the Pantone color in the
The original fabric was loomed on a 10" tube which eliminates all vertical seaming.  Pretty neat:)
The trunk pattern has been drafted though for current standard widths, and you will want to follow the pattern directions for the layout. The pattern sits on the tubular yardage along one fold line and along the center back stitch line, thereby eliminating the unnecessary seam allowance.

The spring weave is quite thick when not stretched to its full potential and so I used pins  to hold the tissue in place and then cut with scissors.
 My rotary cutter just couldn't accommodate the bulk.
Mark your eyelet hole placement using Tailors tacks, or a light colored chalk pencil.

Once you have marked it remove the tissue carefully so the thread remains on your fabric.  Separate the fabric layers and cut the thread in between leaving thread marks on both layers.

My Bernina provides a nice little stitched eyelet hole.  Its #13 under the buttonhole stitches and uses the #1 foot. 
 Always stitch a sample on your fabric to check for tension issues. 
If you do have tension issues consult the manual for your machine.

I have stitched my sample in a contrast color just so you can see what the stitch looks like.  When I use matching thread it practically disappears.
Mine looks great, one of the things I like about my Bernina, rarely need to make tension adjustments:)

Leave thread tails when beginning and ending your stitch.
Pull tails to back and tie in a knot with the tails from that side.

Using a hole punch create a hole in the center of the stitching.

The original costume used a zig zag stitch to finish the seams.  So let's talk a bit about how to properly use your zig zag stitch for this purpose.

You don't want your zig zag to curl the cut edge of your seam, so proper width and stitch placement is important to keep that from happening. 
I can use the default the settings on my zig zag stitch which = 1.5m length and 3m width.

Release the tension between your foot and feed dogs to prevent undue stretching.  Zig zag with the cut edge running along the inside edge of your foot, so that when the needle jumps over to the far right position it stitches just off of your fabric.  This keeps the cut edge from curling under and creating a bulky rolled edge.

A note about the crotch seam.

You will notice when you place your front crotch seam to the back crotch seam that the back is longer.

 Pin the seam along both ends and then stretch until even and pin in the center.  This extra length in the back allows for a more comfortable seat coverage across the tush

Your stitched, zig zagged and edge stitch crotch seam.

Press your waistband and leg opening to the wrong side along the fold line indicated on the pattern.
Straight stitch leg casing 3/8" from fold, stretching a tad as you sew to insure the stitching will accommodate your upper leg circumference.
Straight stitch waist casing 7/8" from fold.

Run 1/4" elastic through the leg casing.  Over lap short ends and stitch across to secure.  Finish sewing casing.

These tiny trunks will actually stretch to fit a small male!

Run your shoelace through the waist casing and you are done.  You now own a pair of authentic and accurate side kick trunks. 

Now, to the Bat Cave...

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